02 ICH REG. PUNJAB EMB-018

Architectural Zardozi

Royal Court Needlework

Architectural metallic thread embroidery executed on taut wooden slate looms using real coiled gold, copper, and silver bullion.

Recognized in historical Mughal atelier archives and preserved under Punjab Traditional Crafts preservation guidelines.

Architectural Zardozi — Architectural metallic thread embroidery executed on taut wooden slate looms using real coiled gold, copper, and silver bullion.

Province: Punjab
Origin: Old Lahore & Gujranwala
Register: PUNJAB EMB-018
Atelier: Walled City Atelier, Lahore

(01) Provenance

Historically patronized in royal imperial workshops, Zardozi translates literally from Persian as 'gold sewing' (Zar = gold, Dozi = sewing). NAVA strips away historical excessive glitter to focus on architectural clean lines, using matte metallic threads as structural contouring on raw silk and wool.

(02) The process

The hand,in stages

Architectural Zardozi — a study from the atelier — Fig. 02 — Old Lahore & Gujranwala

01
NaqshaArchitectural Line Drawing
The geometric motif is drafted by hand on tracing parchment and transferred with powdered chalk onto taut hand-spun silk.
Materials Charcoal powder, vegetable gum, vellum
02
AddaLoom Tension Calibrating
Heavy timber slate frames are tensioned to ensure the fabric cannot warp under the weight of metal threadwork.
Materials Solid Sheesham wood loom frame
03
Gijai & SalmaBullion Coil Application
Artisans cut microscopic spirals of copper and silver wire, guiding them with fine hooked needles (Aari) thread by thread.
Materials Copper alloy bullion wire, gold leaf thread